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the local jaycar doesnt have the right looking caps does anyone have there part number for 100n cap 100nf cap 1u cap as per the seg board
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Hi Marty, The good news is that these are all standard “104” and “105” caps. - The 100n & 100nf are the same part: these are “104” ceramic capacitors (may also be listed as 0.1uf) - The 1u are the “105” ceramic caps. Hope this helps.
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yea i think i f’d up ill get some more today |
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I know I'm months late to the party, but for any future reference:
The ones supplied in the kits and shown in all the photos are listed as 'monolithic' (altronics) or 'blue chip monolithic' (jaycar, even tho current stock is yellow) Jaycar : 0.1uF 50V Blue Chip Monolithic Capacitor (100nF or 100,000pF - marking is '104' - ONE-ZERO-plus-4-more-zeros) Jaycar : 1.0uF 50V Blue Chip Monolithic Capacitor (1uF or 1,000,000pF - marking is '105' - ONE-ZERO-plus-5-more-zeros)
Take note, the capacitor next to the zigbee module is a tantalum type even though it looks the same colour. Tantalums look like a rice bubble dipped in wax. It's a 10uF Tantalum and working on the input voltage (which isn't expected to exceed 12v) so you can choose the 16v, 25v or 35volt part, they're all the same price (part numbers RZ6648 RZ6650 RZ6655) |
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Hey Bryan, The party never ended! The 0.1uF and 1.0uF caps form part of the input filter, a high pass to remove DC offset and a low pass filter to clean up stray noise on the AC singnal side. The Tantalum cap you mention, is also polarised, and needs to be inserted the correct way around. Note this is only used as part of the Zigbee power supply regulator electronics which comes with the Zigbee kit. A picture of it's currect installation is as follows:
Sam, @samotage
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Request for another part number: I think the 3.5mm PCB socket used for the SEGmeter board is Jaycar part number PS-0133 or equivalent. Reference is: http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=PS0133&keywords=PS-0133&form=KEYWORD Sam can you please confirm.
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Assembly question.
I had planned to use (sometimes) a Arduino Deumilanove and the cover of the USB will touch the soldered spots on the underside of the board. Same problem exist I would think with all.most boards with an USB.
Looks like I have to use a Seeedstudio Stalker instead or are there any extra long male headers available? |
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Correct on the 3.5mm sockets, they're the one's i used. To avoid shorts on the usb socket, try some electrical tape. If there's a sharp point from a soldered component there, used a thin square of cardboard (like the back of a notepad) under the tape to avoid the pointy end poking through. |